Wall after damp proof plastering

Not sure which one you've got?

Rising, penetrating and condensation look similar and need completely different fixes. Jack will tell you which it is, free.

Torch-on felt being laid

Strip it back. Do it once.

We take the covering off, replace anything rotten and insulate to current regs before the new system goes down.

Elevation finished in flexible wall coating

Cracked render, stained walls

A flexible coating bridges hairline cracks and sheds water while letting the wall breathe. Ten to fifteen year finishes.

Skylight detail dressed into new felt

Jack, William and a small team

The person who quotes your job runs it, and answers the phone afterwards. Employed teams, £5m public liability.

Meet the team

Damp proof
plastering in Kent.

The half of the job people skip, and the reason damp comes back. Contaminated plaster off, salt-inhibiting render on, so the stain doesn't bleed through your new paint six months later.

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Genuinely free · No obligation
Why ordinary plaster fails

The salts are the problem, not the water.

Groundwater carries dissolved salts up through the masonry. The water eventually evaporates out of the wall surface; the salts don't. They stay behind in the plaster, and they are hygroscopic — they actively pull moisture out of the air around them.

That's why a wall can be visibly damp long after the water has stopped rising, and why a new damp course on its own is only half a fix. Skim over contaminated plaster with ordinary finish and the salts migrate through, staining the paint and blowing the surface within months.

A salt-inhibiting render is designed to hold those salts back and let the wall dry outward. It is the difference between a job that lasts thirty years and one that looks fine until next spring.

When plastering is needed

  • Blown, hollow or crumbling plaster low on the wall
  • White crystalline deposits on the surface or behind wallpaper
  • Staining that keeps coming back through fresh paint
  • A damp course has been injected but nothing replastered
  • Paint or wallpaper lifting along the bottom of the wall
  • A previous damp job that has failed

If someone injected a damp course and left the plaster alone, that's usually why it came back.

Our work

Hacked off, rendered, skimmed

Contaminated plaster removed to the required height, salt-inhibiting render applied and skimmed ready to decorate. Drag across to see the difference.

Salt-inhibitingRender
Usually 1m+ above stainingHeight
Skimmed ready to paintFinish
Weeks, not daysDrying
Wall with contaminated plaster removedThe same wall replastered and finished
BeforeAfter
How we do it

Take it back far enough, then leave it alone.

Two things ruin replastering jobs: not going high enough, and decorating too soon. Both are avoidable and both are on us to get right.

We go above the contamination line, and we tell you honestly how long to wait.

  1. 01

    Strip back

    Contaminated plaster removed, typically to at least a metre above the highest staining so nothing salty is left behind.

  2. 02

    Treat and prepare

    The exposed masonry is cleaned down and prepared, and any injection work is completed at this stage.

  3. 03

    Salt-inhibiting render

    Applied in coats to the required thickness, holding back residual salts while letting the wall dry outward.

  4. 04

    Skim and finish

    Finish coat applied ready for decoration, edges made good to existing plasterwork.

  5. 05

    Drying time

    We tell you how long to leave it and what to paint it with first. Rushing this is what wrecks the finish.

Had a damp course but the stain came back?

That's almost always the plaster. Send us a photo and we'll tell you whether it needs redoing.

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Straight answers

Damp proof plastering questions

Can't I just skim over it?
No — and this is the single most common reason damp jobs fail. Skimming traps contaminated plaster behind a thin new surface, and the salts pull moisture straight through it. Within months you have staining on fresh paint.
How high do you take the plaster off?
Usually at least a metre above the highest point of visible staining, because salt contamination runs further than the tide mark suggests. We confirm the height on site.
How long before I can decorate?
New render needs to dry thoroughly — think weeks rather than days, depending on thickness, the season and how well the room is ventilated. We give you a realistic figure and recommend a breathable finish first.
Can I use ordinary emulsion afterwards?
Not for the first coat. Use a breathable finish so remaining moisture can escape. Sealing a drying wall with vinyl emulsion traps it and causes the paint to blister.
Is plastering included in a damp proofing quote?
In our quotes, yes — it's part of the same job, priced and itemised in the one fixed figure rather than added as an extra afterwards.
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